Slice Into the Season: Local Pie Makers Tackle Taste-Buds
Ned Atwater, co-owner of Atwater’s, which sells its pies at a number of D.C. farmers markets, is a fervent proponent of natural, homemade pies crafted in the hands-on style of pre-industrial bakers. “We want to keep traditional foods done in the traditional style alive forever,” he says. During the holiday season, the Baltimore-based baker sees customers gravitating toward his pecan pie, which takes the classic recipe and adds molasses and a skosh of lemon. Another end-of-the-year fave is the apple pie, which features spiced local apples baked into a flaky, buttery crust.
Another proponent of top-notch taste is also one of D.C.’s newest pie masters. Rodney Henry is the tattooed, rocker-turned-baker behind Dangerously Delicious on the H Street corridor. His shop exudes both a cool-kid vibe, and the warm smells of savory and sweet pies. Straight-up seasonal favorites are always good, but it’s worth branching out and trying some of Henry’s twisted takes on the standards. The Motown Brown starts with an already rich pecan base and adds Swiss chocolate and caramel to create a gooey, glucose level-spiking masterpiece. And the Caramel Apple Crumb starts with apples, then layers on a brown sugary crumb topping and a generous drizzle of caramel.
Over in Vienna, Va., the Pie Gourmet offers almost 40 varieties of crusty creations. A standout for the season is the blackberry-pear, topped with the bakery’s signature crust that overlays small circles of pastry like golden browned armor. If you want to cut back on the sweets but still get your pie groove on, then order a savory dinner pie. The fresh broccoli and cauliflower option is enriched with mozzarella, Parmesan, eggs and cream, while the chicken potpie is a reassuring take on the Southern comfort.
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If you’re out in the Cavalier State anyway, stop by Mom’s Apple Pie Company, which has stores in Occoquan and Leesburg. More than 35 different homemade pies vie for customers’ attention, but several stand out to shoppers at this time of year. A big seller is the mincemeat, which is the result of a full year’s worth of work. After pan-searing the beef and the suet, the bakers let it stew in cider before pouring in brandy, spices and a plethora of fruits including apples, cherries, citron, lemon and orange peels, raisins and currants. They then freeze the mixture for 12 months, which ensures that the flavors become deeply entrenched and completely robust.
Despite the fact that Mom’s does a brisk business in lesser-known pies such as the mincemeat, Renshaw can’t say that they are ever her best sellers. “The big three are always pumpkin, apple and pecan,” she says. “People always love the basics. You can’t go wrong with the basics.”
Nice Slices Await You Here
» Atwater’s, Multiple Maryland locations and various D.C. farmers markets; 410-747-4120.
» Dangerously Delicious, 1339 H St. NE; 202-398-7437.
» Mom’s Apple Pie Company, 126 A Commerce St., Occoquan, Va.; 703-497-7437.
» The Pie Gourmet, 507 Maple Ave. W., Vienna, Va.; 703-281-7437.
Written by Express contributor Nevin Martell
Photo by Kris Connor for Express
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